Wednesday, 26 August 2009


I found out yesterday evening that getting out back in 6-7ft wave after a day of labouring is hard work! The arms and back were worn down from shifting breeze blocks all day but I remained optimistic and determined and eventually suceeded on my third attempt. Alas, it took the best part of an hour to catch my first wave. However, as the evening started to get dark, I had an unexpected energy boost and managed to catch a few nice green waves before heading back in; making all the effort from earlier on seem worthwhile. Definetly the biggest waves I've had a chance to ride on with my new shortboard. I think it's gonna take some time adjusting to controlling the board on such powerful swell; I got chucked off several times whilst attempting re-entries after front turns on the lip!

In general I think my stamina and fitness has increased a fair amount lately, mainly because of the length of time I've been spending in the sea and getting extra gym sessions squeezed in to my routine. As soon as I've finished moving house I'm going to try and get a few hours swimming lengths in at the local pool once week aswell; get those arms pumping!

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