Saturday, 26 September 2009

Being content with a dead-end life; it would make life so much easier. As it happens I'm not content with such a lifestyle, and am hence posed with loads of hard decisions. I'm pretty sure these decisions are meant to be part of the excitment of pre-adulthood but they've been really fucking frustrating for me! I think my broad range of interests and passions are to blame; and of course, me being indecisive.

Wednesday, 2 September 2009

Back from Reading Festival Monday evening. Dumped the camping gear at home. Nevermind a shower after 4 days of the same set of muddy, dusty and reeking clothes. Nevermind a rest after the journey back from Reading. Pack the car with the shorty and the wetsuit and off to Polzeath!

Was quiet a pleasent session despite being depleted of energy. Nice 5-6ft sets. The catch to wipeout ratio was more in favour of the wipepouts though! However, it was great to get back into the sea again.

Went out to Haryln earlier in effort to evade the messy swell at Polzeath. Arrived to nice clean sets at high tide; 4-6ft. Wasn't catching much in terms nice waves. Two and a half hours in I spotted a seal outback; then in comes a nice set. Got a good paddle going. Got into the wave quickly. Got a couple of front turns in. Re-entering from the third front turn. See someone paddling out and perform the most ridiculous shitty bail. Get quick spinned in the white water. Get to the surface after several seconds to find a huge chunk of fibreglass hacked out of the nose of my board. Ankle is bleeding slightly. Paddled back in effort to prevent my board flooding. Once on tyhe beach I Observe the damage; pulling out a few of my leg hairs from the fibreglass... What a bitch.